Cirque Series Engelberg: Where skyrunners meet trail novices

Words by Robert Birnbaum. Photography by Jan Cadosch.

15 km (9.3 miles) and 930 m (3050 feet) elevation gain of racing over technical terrain. Pro trail athletes racing alongside first-timers, a memorable pre- and post-race party, plus stunning views. I was by no means a trail runner when I first heard of Cirque Series Engelberg. But this sounded like fun. And I was curious. I considered myself a hiker, but running on mountains was an abstract concept to me. 

Cirque Series gave me the chance to investigate at a comfortable distance. The aim of the events is to open up the world of trail racing to a wider range of runners and those who’d never consider themselves trail athletes. Spanning a challenging, but not otherworldly, distance on the rocky Engelberg trails, the spectacular course of the Swiss edition invites a variety of approaches. Either make it your first rodeo and enjoy the stunning scenery at your own pace. Or line up next to the pros and push yourself further than ever before.

My sweet spot was somewhere in-between. With little-to-no experience running on trails but a solid foundation of fitness (and obviously far too much pride), I wanted to give it my all. I signed up in the “Sport” category, which is best suited for a trail running beginner like me. Maybe 10–15 meters in front of me in the “Pro” section, I spotted Antoine Charvolin, an On trail athlete and a good friend. Being so close to the front of the pack and running right alongside hobby athletes like me was a first. 

The starting shot sent us off into our adventure – the pros immediately separating themselves from the rest of us at a blistering pace while we navigated the traffic at the foot of the mountain. I was in good spirits, despite the cold rain running down my face. About a kilometer in, my smile turned into a grimace as I started the ascent. It came as a surprise to me that even the faster runners weren’t actually running uphill, but walking. Three or four experienced trail runners later confirmed this is how even the pros handle serious inclines, but I found out the hard way, with my heart pumping like a psytrance beat (read: very, very fast). “You’re wasting your energy, buddy. You’re not any faster by running, and you’ll be toast in a kilometer tops,” a runner enlightened me as she strode past me. Lesson learned.

Looking up the mountain, the climb was seemingly endless. By deploying my new walking strategy, I made it to the top feeling cooked but not overdone. The aid station – and a chance to refuel – was welcome. Some last words of encouragement from the staff were needed to keep me pushing, but I did. The downhill began and, though I wasn’t the only one struggling with the muddy terrain, there were smiles and cheers all along the mountainside. In the days leading up to the race, my inflated ego told me I was going to crush the downhill. The only thing getting crushed on the descent, though, was my breathing rhythm. A serious stitch meant stopping every couple of minutes to relax my abdominal muscles. The mountain had officially humbled me.

In the end, I made it back to the valley and even had a little gas left in the tank for a final sprint, helped by the electric atmosphere at the finish. Runners, fans and staff came together to celebrate spending a day in the mountains, pushing their limits and potentially even discovering a new passion for trail racing. It was easy to mingle with complete strangers because we had the shared identity of the struggle, the joy, the adventure. It felt good to exchange fist bumps with the speed demons who had crossed the finish line an hour ahead of me. I was part of the trail running community. I was hooked.

Don’t get me wrong, I hadn’t already forgotten the pain of the ascent. It was tough, but it was worth the feeling of making it to the peak. The downhill hurt like walking down a never-ending set of stairs after a brutal leg workout, however, the adrenaline rushing through my tired body turned it into an exhilarating game. I was just one of the many first-timers in Engelberg that felt like this. And that’s what makes Cirque Series races so special. I sense my first trail race won't be my last.

Cirque Series returns to Engelberg on September 23, 2023. Sign up here for a chance to find out if trail racing will become your whole personality, a welcome opportunity to spend a day in nature or just a one-time experience (which is totally fine).