What to wear to play tennis

Words by Lee Glandorf. Photography by Dani K. Monteiro, Wendy Huynh,  Frankie Carino, Alex F. Webb.

If soccer is the beautiful game, then tennis is the fashionable one. “This is a sport that’s a bit more stylish,” says Brazilian rising star and On athlete, João Fonseca, who won the Junior title at the 2023 U.S. Open. “I like to look that way on the tennis court.”

Played by kings in their finery at Versailles, Victorians in all-white on the lawn, and amateurs in their activewear in Brooklyn’s Prospect Park, aesthetic attention to detail in tennis is as long as its history. Today, tennis professionals like On’s Iga Świątek, Ben Shelton, João Fonseca and Flavio Cobolli showcase their personal style on and off the court, mixing function with self-expression to perform their best. 

“My style is crazy elegant,” says Flavio Cobolli, the Italian pro currently ranked 31st in the world. His sensibilities reflect his big personality and maximalist Florentine heritage, “A lot of players draw inspiration from other athletes, but I think I was born with good style. I was born to be a little different.”

How tennis players dress to compete

Today’s athletes have high expectations of their kit, and tennis apparel has evolved as the sport has become faster and more physically taxing. Performance is the priority, though players still like to look their best.

“I like to be comfortable on the court, of course,” says Cobolli. “But I like also bright colors: purple, yellow, pink. I want the perfect balance of comfort and style.”

That balance on the court starts with lightweight pieces designed for speed and precision. Tennis shorts and skirts must be soft, stretchy and moisture-wicking with pockets that can hold tennis balls securely during play. “Pockets are really important,” Fonseca says. As is the fit of his Court Shorts – he prefers pairs that have more room in the legs, the better to accommodate muscular thighs. “Some players like to wear their shorts tight, but I like a looser fit.” Made from recycled polyester and cut with classic tennis styling, the Court Shorts combine modern sensibilities with tennis’s signature look.

Iga Świątek is a stickler for tennis skirts that fit close to her body, so there are no distractions during a point. Not only should the skirt hold tennis balls, its body-skimming undershorts must stay in place throughout the match – no budging. She plays in On’s signature pleated Court Skirt made from a lightweight fabric that’s finished with bonded seams to prevent chafing and pairs it with a sports bra and Court Tank, featuring clean lines and underarm gussets that enable her blistering 123 mile-per-hour serve.

Match day attire is particularly significant. “When you put on your suit for the match, you transform,” says Fonseca. In a sport known for its understated aesthetics, the young player relishes standing out in On’s modern and colorful pieces. “It says: I am here. It’s a statement.”

Fonseca’s game is making statements too. Having reached world number one as a junior, he’s surging through the professional ranks – catapulting from 727th in the world in January to 162nd in August – and was the youngest Challenger champion of the 2024 season. 

Ben Shelton also prefers a look that stands out, “A lot of the brands other players are wearing – they don't make much outside of traditional tennis clothes, so my buddies on tour are definitely jealous of the gradient kit I've been wearing. They all want to touch it.”

What to wear for a tennis match

Tournaments have different rules for attire and athletes dress for the occasion. Wimbledon famously requests traditional all-white clothing from head to toe. This year, Shelton wore a white headband and arm sleeve, a crisp On T and shorts. At the Paris Olympics, Świątek played in a special version of her On Court Skirt and Tank, swapping On’s pink and purple for Poland’s crimson. Even her signature hat featured a red logo, so she could represent her country. New York places a premium on fashion, so Świątek, Shelton and Cobolli took to the court in a statement-making pink, blue and white ombre.

Like Świątek, Fonseca prefers to play in a Lightweight Cap. Not only does it help him focus on the match, but it helps keep his mop of curls from falling into his face. Germany’s Julia Stusek plays in a visor over her long, swinging braid.

High-quality tennis socks are key. Cobolli opts for higher cut pairs that are cushioned for added ankle support. He has a ritual too, when it comes to his accessories. “I always like to put on different color wristbands, so I have a different one on my right and left hand.” His lucky sweatbands and daring ground strokes powered him to the third round of the 2024 U.S. Open.

As for footwear? On tennis shoes blend lightweight performance and structure for moving across the court to take the set. “My favorite piece is, of course, the Roger Pro 2,” says Cobolli.

What to wear for tennis practice

Outside of competition, players use their practice apparel to express their personal style. They need gear that can transition with them from the court, to the weight room to lunch and back to training again. Players like Cobolli choose pieces for versatility. He hits in On’s Club T, while Shelton and Fonseca train in the Performance Tank and T. “It’s really soft, really light,” says Fonseca. “I don’t even feel the shirt when I’m playing and it comes in cool colors.” 

Świątek trains in long or short tights, while Julia Stusek likes the airy fit of a crop top. At tournaments, the practice court is its own runway. With press and their competition watching, athletes like to showcase new outfits each day. “I always like to wear something different on the court,” says Cobolli. “I like to be different from other guys.”

Unpacking the tennis dress code: Are tennis whites mandatory?

“There’s this great tradition and rich history in tennis,” says Shelton. The classic tennis aesthetic as we know it today – crisp whites, clean lines, preppy shorts and skirts – has its roots in the nineteenth century, when the sport was a leisure activity played on manicured lawns. The rare sport that allowed women to play alongside men, there was cache around dressing to impress. That meant starched button down shirts and trousers for men; bustled skirts, stiff corsets and straw hats for women. It wasn’t until 1919, when France’s Suzanne Lenglen dared wear a calf-length dress at Wimbledon that tennis hemlines began to rise. 

Tennis whites were both practical, and a social signal to observers. White would hide sweat stains, and the pristine finish (seemingly) signified a player’s wealth. Today, tennis whites are no longer mandatory outside of a few private clubs, though many athletes still choose to wear it. Perhaps it’s a nod to tradition. Perhaps it’s just to stay cool while playing in the sun. The ‘why’ behind what players choose to wear is often unique to them.

“Some players think you play better in a specific outfit,” Fonseca says. “When I play well in an outfit during a match, I like to wear it to practice too. It sets the tone.”

Looking to understand tennis’s modern dress code? The movie, Challengers offers a helpful primer. Zendaya’s character, Tashi Duncan, dons the classic white tennis dress, a symbol of her pure love of the game. Her foil, Patrick Zweig (Josh O’Connor), serves up his own style in plaid shorts and a clashing sleeveless tee, reflecting his own rebellious, anti-establishment attitude. 

How tennis pros dress off duty

Off the court and on the go, most athletes prioritize comfort. “The lifestyle pieces are pretty much my wardrobe on a daily basis,” says Shelton. Criss-crossing the globe for tournaments, they live in easy, relaxed pieces like the Club Pants and Club Crew. Fonseca joined me on a call from Miami in his favorite On hoodie: the clean and minimalist design aligns with his “more simple” style. At the 2023 Japan Open, Shelton accepted his trophy in the Court Jacket and Court Pants, featuring a statement-making gradient design befitting his first ATP Tour title. 

Shelton’s effortless style has landed him coverage in magazines like GQ and Vanity Fair and helps him stand out from his competition. “I get style inspiration from different people, other athletes, and Instagram,” he says.

Tennis has come a long way since the buttoned-up Victorians. And while the game has become faster and the shorts shorter, showing up in your best fits, remains embedded in the game’s DNA. Today, classic tennis style continues to evolve thanks to a new generation of stars who bring their own flair – coupled with showstopping talent – to center court.